African American Hair

2008-04-29 09:07

African American Hair Structure

What's different about our hair?  Why do we need different products and routines?  African hair is made of the same “stuff” as non-African hair.  The difference lies in the way those components are put together or the structure of our hair.  The structure of our hair can cause it to be more prone to breakage and dryness.  Because of this, black hair care needs are different from those for other types of hair.  Our hair can have up to twice the amount of “cuticle” or outer layer.  Our hair is kinkier which makes it more difficult for the oil secreted from our scalps to reach the ends of the hair.  But, keep in mind there is a continuum of hair types.  Especially since most of us are of mixed heritage, African American hair and bi-racial people's hair can vary widely.  Even within a single head of hair, there are different hair types.   So, there is no one solution for the care of all African American hair.  However, it is helpful to know, generally, what type of hair you have.  This link http://www.ourhair.net  will take you to a site where you can determine your hair type.  Intuitively, you might think African hair is "tougher" than Caucasian hair and can handle more stress or abuse.  After all, it is coarser and thicker.  Actually, African hair (especially if treated like European hair) is more fragile than Caucasian hair.  For this reason, we suggest using products made especially for our hair, whenever possible.  Today, there is a wide range of excellent products made specifically for the needs of African American or Textured hair.

The parts that make up your hair are:

Cuticle: Outer layer of the hair. It is made up of layers of scales which interlock with the cells of the hair's inner root sheath to firmly anchor it in the follicle.  This is a thin and colorless layer.  Black hairs cuticle layer can be twice the thickness of that of white hair.

Cortex: The middle layer. It is composed of cells which are tightly bound around one another. These bands provide the hair with elasticity and strength and are very receptive to chemicals.  As a result, they can easily be influenced (or damaged) by dyes and relaxers.

Melanin: is contained in the cortex and is the substance that determines the color of our hair and skin. The more melanin, the darker the hair or skin.

Follicle: This is the name for hair before it emerges from the skin. Follicles are composed of many elements including carbon, hydrogen and oxygen. Healthy amounts of these elements can improve the hairs' condition and appearance once it emerges.

Sebaceous/Sudoniferous Glands: Attached to the hair follicle are the sebaceous (oil) and the sudoriferous (sweat) glands. The sebaceous glands open and close continuously to release a waxy sebum oil into the hair follicle and onto the scalp. The sudoriferous glands contain many small structures with porous openings leading to the skin. They produce substances which dry on the skin including salts, acids, water and bacteria. If not completely dissolved and effectively removed from the scalp, they can help cause severe itching and dandruff.  Thus, the scalp problems some people experience in the early stages of locs.

 

What are the hair care basics?

You should picture your hair as a collection of fine fibers.  You should treat it as gently as you would a fine washable silk blouse.  The better you treat your hair, the easier it will be to grow and the better it will look. African hair will tend to be dryer and more prone to breakage because the structure makes it more difficult for the oils to work their way from the scalp to the ends of the hair.  If you relax your hair, you've weakened the hair and reduced the ability for the scalp to naturally oil it. The points where the hair curls and twists are also points where the hair tends to break.  The more of these points (as in African hair), the more the hair is prone to breakage.   Also, because our hair is kinky, it tends to tangle more and pulling these tangles out can cause breakage.

 
  • Either section the hair and plait it, tie it back or wrap it up using a scarf before going to bed, this will reduce the number of tangles you have to comb out the next morning, reducing the chances of breaking your hair. 

     
  • Sleep with a satin scarf or sleep cap on your head or with a satin pillow case.  This helps avoid split ends caused by the rubbing of your hair against a "rough" cotton pillow case.  It also avoids moisture being wicked out of your hair into your cotton pillow case.

     
  • Wash your hair no more often than every week to week and a half.  More than that can dry it out.

     
  • Comb your hair out while you're conditioning it to remove the tangles while it's wet and relatively slick.

     
  • Oil your scalp on a regular basis with a good natural oil like shea butter.  A daily moisturizer is not a bad idea.

     
  • Do a deep conditioner or hot oil treatment once a month.

     
  • Massage your scalp on a regular basis to promote circulation and oil production.

     
  • Avoid overuse of products with mineral oil or petroleum.  They tend to block the pores and are not readily absorbed.  If your mother used Vaseline® on your hair, stop.

     
  • If you exercise and sweat, rinse the salt out of your hair even if you don't wash it.  Condition it afterwards with a daily leave-in conditioner.

     
  • Always use a leave-in conditioner after washing your hair.

     
  • Put as little heat as possible on your hair.  Heat, especially combined with perms is very damaging to hair.

     
  • Avoid alcohol based products unless you have a need for a water-free shampoo to cleanse your scalp (for example while you're waiting for your locks to lock).

     
  • Remember that water (moisture) is your friend and get  plenty- inside and out.  If you used to press your hair or blow it out and learned to fear water on your hair because it would draw up, you need to get over this.  Spritzing a little water on your hair every day is a good idea.  Get a spray bottle and just spray it just a little.

     
  • Eat a proper diet.  Vitamins and protein are essential for proper hair growth. We have nutritional supplements specifically designed for hair and skin health.  Hair Growth Supplements

     
  • Find a style that works with your natural hair type and growth pattern.  The less you work against your hair, the less stressed it will be.

     
  • Do not relax your hair until it is bone straight.  This is just asking for trouble.  Why relax your hair until it has absolutely no body or curl and then put heat on it to try to get that curl back?  
     

Some tools you should have in your kit
  • A good shampoo: They will be more expensive.  But, they'll use more gentle cleansers and be more concentrated.  You may find they save you money in the long run.  And, your hair will definitely show the difference.  We offer several.

     
  • A good acidifier (a conditioner with a low pH): Acidifying the hair adds shine and detangles.

     
  • A good hot oil treatment or deep conditioner:  It is an all natural based shea butter treatment.  Apply the conditioner or hot oil treatment to the hair and scalp, cover with a plastic cap and sit under a dryer for 15-20 minutes.  Alternatively, you can wrap your head in a towel.  Then wash the hair thoroughly.  This is very important for dry brittle hair.  We have several here:  Hair Repair Products

     
  • A good leave in conditioner or daily moisturizer:  This is what you'll put on your hair after you've thoroughly cleaned it to continue to provide oil and moisture.

     
  • A comb for your hair type.  Don't try to drag one of those skinny toothed combs through your natural kinky or curly hair.  You'll just end up pulling it out and breaking it off.

     
  • A good boar bristle brush (use sparingly though)

     
  • A spray bottle to mist your hair

     
  • A scarf, cap, or wrap to wear on your head at night- or a satin pillow case (well, two).
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